La Habana Vieja

Although the old city (and the new) is crumbling faster than it can be repaired, it still exudes charm and pulses with the energy of a great city. The narrow streets of 'Vieja' are crowded but rarely oppressive (though the less-traveled alleys do take on a more sinister quality after dark). Just about every other corner has a cafe with a band, and just about every band seems to be playing 'Guantanamera' or 'Chan Chan.'

Cerro

At one time it was relatively wealthy, but in 2000 when we visited, this section of town, a ways away from Old Havana, was pretty faded.

Spandex

Cuba's favorite fabric is Spandex. These two young ladies spotted me taking photos near the center of Havana and asked me if I would take their picture.

Trinidad has been declared a 'World Heritage Site' by UNESCO, but it's probably something of a stretch. It is, however, a pleasant town of 50,000 with a very compact center where fine old buildings from colonial times have been reasonably well-preserved. With a steady flow of tourists, there are also a few well-appointed restaurants, a little crafts market, and a lot of music of the more and less organized sort.

Dancing in the street in Trinidad

Pinar del Rio is the center of the cigar-manufacturing industry.But compared to the openness and joy of the rest of Cuba, it felt slightly sinister.

It was practically mid-town and mid-day, but there was not a single car on the street.

La Casa de la trova

Trinidad's Casa de la Trova attracted a mixed crowd of locals and tourists. In the evenings, it was crowded with a dressed up crowd, but the atmosphere was more relaxed when we wandered in before noon, looking for a cup of coffee. We didn't get the coffee, but the music was the very best we heard during our time in Cuba.

Young dancers